- Plug-and-play 2.1 with the Ultima 20 Mk2 hi-fi bookshelf speakers
- A system for powerful & detailed playback with music, movies and games
- Compact fanless 2.1 stereo receiver can be mounted directly behind a television or furniture
- Comes with handy Puck remote for regulating volume settings and moving between sound sources
- Includes HDMI ARC & RCA input, can be controlled via standard TV remote thanks to HDMI CEC
- Wireless, space-saving downfire subwoofer has the largest woofer in this price class
- Bluetooth 4.0 with apt-X codec makes it possible to stream music in CD quality
- Comes with loudspeaker cable (15 m) and HDMI cable (1.5)
Overview of our technologies
Looking for a classic stereo system for music that also delivers stunning TV playback? You've come to the right place.
Quality you can trust: The Ultima 20 are among the best bookshelf speakers in their price class. Our developers in Berlin made sure this stereo pair has the best-possible sound thanks to the following:
- Large 25 mm tweeters for a silky, soft treble
- Large 165 mm midrange drivers with phase plug produce balanced, evenly dispersed sound
- Trumpet bass reflex vents eliminate wind noise and chuffing for deep, clean bass
- Klippel-optimized drivers ensure an incredibly balanced frequency response
Each driver has been optimized by first-class Klippel technology – a first for speakers in this price class. This precision calibration technology allows the Ultima 20 to produce linear and balanced playback. Bass reflex ports with trumpet vents enhance the bass without wind noise. Well-braced wooden enclosures minimize vibrations resulting in a very clean sound.
The Ultima 20 Mk2 scores points on style with harmoniously rounded edges, compact dimensions, and cleverly accented drivers – a self-confident look sure to enhance any interior. The speakers can be seamlessly integrated into any home, fitting easily on either a shelf, wall, or floor stand.
This subwoofer is the worthy companion of the speakers. It’s compact, easy-placed form belies truly astonishing power. Equipped with two bass reflex vents, the sub delivers a respectable 43 Hz low end (-3 dB). 106 dB maximum sound pressure levels pushes the bass into the room with plenty of grip and power.
The subwoofer is equipped with an automatic on/off switch as well as volume and phase regulators. This makes it possible to adjust the sound to suit one’s room and personal tastes. Rubberized feet are naturally included.
The CoreStation Compact is among the smallest and most unobtrusive 2.1 stereo receivers on the market today. The little system requires no more space than a sheet of paper.
The CoreStation Compact delivers 2 x 40 watts RMS from a highly efficient and extremely low noise class D amplifier from Texas Instruments. Fill rooms up to 25 m² with high, distortion-free levels.
The CoreStation Compact uses Bluetooth with the sophisticated aptX codec. This makes it possible to stream music via Bluetooth in a sound quality that cannot be distinguished from a cabled source. Simply activate Bluetooth on the system and the CoreStation will transmit all the audio from your mobile device to your speakers. Enjoy music from Spotify, YouTube and iTunes as well as audio from Facebook, apps and games in pristine sound quality.
The CoreSation Compact can controlled in a number of different ways. Use the Puck Remote, your own TV remote or the controls on the device itself. The eco-friendly little system automatically shuts itself off after 20 minutes with no in-coming signal.
- Shelf Speaker UL 20 Mk2
- Mono-Subwoofer US 2106/1 SW
- CoreStation Compact
- Power adapter for CoreStation Compact
- Puck Wireless Remote Control
- Sub Connect RX
- power adapter
- Mono-Cinch-Cable 0.5m - C3005A
- 15 m Speaker Cable 1.0mm² - C1015S
- HDMI-Cable 1.4 1.5m - C1515V
|Continuous power handling (IEC - Long Term)||50 Watt|
|Peak power capacity (IEC - Short Term)||80 Watt|
|Sensitivity (2.83 V / 1 m)||84 dB|
|Minimum amplifier output power recommended||30 Watt|
|Maximum sound pressure level||104 dB/1m|
|Impedance||4 - 8 Ohm|
|Frequency range from/to||70 - 20000 Hz|
|Crossover frequency internal switch||2600 Hz|
|Crossover frequency to Woofer (recommended)||80 Hz|
|Tweeter (number per enclosure)||1|
|Tweeter (diameter)||25.00 mm|
|Bass/Midrange driver (number per enclosure)||1|
|Bass/Midrange driver (diameter)||165.00 mm|
|Bass/Midrange driver (material)||Kevlar/fiberglass, chrome-coloured phase plug|
|Enclosure type||Bass reflex|
|Equalisation openings (pos.)||backside|
|Removable front cover||Yes|
|Net internal volume||10 Litres|
|Diameter of the stand screw threads||6.00 mm|
|Terminal clamps||Screw terminals, gold plated|
|Suitable for banana plug||Yes|
|Maximum cable diameter||4.00 mm|
|Suitable for AV receiver||Yes|
|Sensitivity (2.83 V / 1 m) [dB]||89|
|Maximum sound pressure level [dB/1m]||106|
|Impedance [Ohm]||4 - 8 Ohm|
|Frequency range from/to [Hz]||43 - 200 Hz|
|Woofer (number per enclosure)||1|
|Woofer (diameter) [mm]||160|
|Woofer (material)||Cellulose, coated|
|Miscellaneous||Optimised with Klippel®-measurement method|
|Acoustic principle||1 way|
|Enclosure type||Bass reflex, DPU|
|Enclosure surface||Foil / high-gloss lacquer|
|Equalisation openings (pos.)||bottom|
|Removable front cover||Yes|
|Diameter of the stand screw threads [mm]||6|
|Miscellaneous||Robust MDF housing with internal reinforcements|
|Suitable for AV receiver||Yes|
|Lowest frequency (-3 dB) [Hz]||43|
|Input gain adjustment||Yes|
|Power output capacity impulse (peak) Bass [W]||100|
|Power output capacity sinus (RMS) Bass [W]||80|
|Power supply voltage [volts]||230 Volt|
|Standby-Power consumption [watt]||.4|
|Maximum power consumption [watt]||100|
|Mains lead fixed||Yes|
|Storage for settings when disconnected||Yes|
High-performance adapter for stable power supply
|Miscellaneous||Absorber pads included in delivery|
|Terminal clamps||Loudspeaker terminals|
|Maximum cable diameter||1.50 mm|
|Cinch input stereo||1|
|Bass driver output||1|
|High level speaker outputs||1|
|Video inputs- HDMI||1|
|Video inputs- HDMI||Yes|
|Amplifier technology||Class D|
|Power output capacity impulse (peak) Satellite||45 W|
|Power output capacity sinus (RMS) Satellite||40 W|
|Performance measured by (Ohm)||4|
|Standby-Power consumption||0.40 watt|
|Maximum power consumption||90 watt|
|Storage for settings when disconnected||Yes|
|Miscellaneous||For placement on the back of a television (VESA compatible). Mounts included with delivery.|
Downloads & support
1. Remove the RCA cable from the input on the subwoofer. If the hum is no longer heard, go to point B. Otherwise, follow point A.
A. Attach the net cable of the subwoofer to another electricity outlet (i.e. Kitchen/Bathroom/Bedroom). If the subwoofer still hums, get in contact with our Support team.
Should the hum no longer be there, the disruption was a problem in your power supply, which can, for instance, be caused by dimmers or chargers. To find out where the disruption is, unplug all your devices and work back from there. As soon as the hum is heard, you now know your source of the disruption.
B. In your case, the "ground hum" is responsible for the disruption. Please proceed as follows to discover your source.
- Disconnect the cable or satellite port from the TV Receiver and check if the hum disappears or not. If it does, you can use a sheath current filter for the cable outlet to prevent this. For example, the sheath current filter AC 9022 ED. If you have a satellite connection, connect the Satellite Receiver to the optical cable playback source - Teufel Optical Digital Cable
- If this reason can be excluded, separate all devices from the AV Receiver one at a time until the hum stops. The last connected device is then your hum source and should be separated from the others using a galvanic separation filter (found in a retail shop)
- If this doesn't work, get in contact with us once again so that we can give an individual, helpful response.
The corresponding setting in the speaker set-up must be adjusted individually for each source for many receivers, however, e.g. for CD playback only front without woofer, and front speakers plus woofer for Dolby Surround video playback.
To make sure the subwoofer switches on and off correctly in automatic mode, (to be selected on the corresponding switch of the subwoofer, such as "Auto / On / Off"), we recommend turning the level control on the subwoofer to 1/3 or perhaps to 1/2 and increasing the output level for the sub in the receiver's speaker set-up – sometimes up to the maximum (+10 dB or +12 dB). The subwoofer should then work perfectly.
The maximum position of the output level in the speaker set-up of the AV Receiver is obligatory for some of our models (e.g. the Concept S subwoofer).
You can connect it like a standard speaker system: the five satellites via speaker cable to the corresponding speaker outputs front R/L, rear R/L and centre of the AV Receiver/amplifier and the subwoofer from the front R input via a mono-RCA cable to the Sub Out output on the A/V Receiver/amplifier.
The auto on/standby switch only responds when the front R input is being used! The subwoofer also receives the full subwoofer signal via this channel.
If the AV Receiver/amplifier has preamplifier outputs for all channels (front R/L, rear R/L, centre and subwoofer), the Teufel set can also be connected via three RCA cable pairs to the subwoofer and the satellites via speaker cables to the subwoofer. However, we recommend using the first version.
Separate the direct connection by a grounding filter for the antennae cable that is created for it - for instance, the Teufel modell sheath current filter AC 9022 ED. Alternatively, you can use a galvanic separation filter that is looped into the connection between the subwoofer and AV Receiver.
The hum disappears if the antennae cable is separated from the Receiver/Tuner/TV. First try the grounding filter, otherwise the galvanic separation filter.
Placement within the straight line between both front satellites is ideal - but not precisely in the corner of the room because certain frequency components could be unpleasantly excessive when played back.
The membranes of the satellites should move to the front at the same time as the membrane of the subwoofer bass speaker, because all speakers of the system must vibrate in phase for optimal playback. This means that (provided the connection has the correct polarity) all drivers must move in one direction when the three front speakers receive a pulse (towards the outside or towards the inside).
If the subwoofer is in line with the front speakers, its bass speaker should have the same direction of movement (phase) - the controller on the woofer is set to "0". If the subwoofer is not between the front speakers, but is to the side of or even behind the listening location, its phase length will not match that of the front speakers. That is why the phase of the subwoofer must be changed in such cases.
So much for the theory. In practice, this means: Listen to a loud piece of music with heavy basses and ask a second person to change the phase during playback. The correct setting of the phase switch depends on where the subwoofer is positioned in the room. The position where the bass playback (above all the upper bass range) sounds the fullest is the correct position. Have fun trying it out!
Even though the LED is still illuminated, the subwoofer is in standby mode. This function can be easily checked by slowly increasing the volume at the receiver/amplifier. You will hear a quiet popping noise when the subwoofer activates itself as of a certain level.
If the satellites are not connected directly to the subwoofer but to the AV Receiver/amplifier via speaker cable instead, the subwoofer performance will increase somewhat; the power amplifiers for the satellites have no function. This enables the subwoofer and satellites to play even more dynamically than if the subwoofer still had to provide the satellites with performance.
The technical background: The subwoofer has a large transformer with a specific wattage. This performance is either distributed to the five satellites and the subwoofer, or you receive a higher performance only for the subwoofer.
If the cabling method is easier for you, then you can alternatively connect one subwoofer to the other. You will need two mono cinch cables - one to connect the subwoofer "Pre Out" on the AV receiver/amplifier to the left line-in input of the first subwoofer, and the other to connect the left line-out output of the first subwoofer to the left line-in input of the second subwoofer.
The wattage (e.g. "360 W") printed on the rear of the subwoofer near the mains plug designates the ability of the power amplifier "to pull" a maximum power rating in the specified range at the moment of switching on (those 360 watt stated as an example).
Consequently, the wattage must correspond to at least the sine wave output of the amplifier, as this sine wave output must be permanently available which the power pack must provide as well.
The pulse/music performance of the amplifier, on the other hand, can exceed the wattage, because the short pulses are buffered additionally by the capacitors in the power pack and are not achieved solely through the performance of the power pack.
The wattage for a multi-channel subwoofer can also be below the sine wave output, as the specified sine wave output is not requested from every channel at the same time.
For a 5 x 100 watt sinus power amplifier, for example, each of the five channels is able to implement 100 watt sine. However, not all five channels at the same time! This is also unnecessary, as the same signal is never transmitted across all five channels at the same time, thus requesting the same high sine wave output per channel.
That is why the wattage may be, e.g. 300 watt, even if the sine wave output exhibits 5 x 100 watt (= 500 watt).
The volume of the active subwoofer can be controlled so that you can adapt the relationship between the active bass and treble / mid tones to suit the room.
Use your own senses to judge which settings sound best in your room. This switch is especially useful in stereo mode. On the other hand, multichannel amplifiers often have technologies that adjust the subwoofer volume - so when using a multichannel amplifier the controller should first be set at 0dB.
It is calculated of the sound velocity divided by 2 and divided by the room length [ 340 m/s: 2 : 6 m = 28.3 Hz (=1/s) ] or, more simply: 170 divided by the room dimension (length, width or height). The greatest distance between two parallel walls is taken as first standard value. For a room of 4 x 6 metres, this would be 6 metres. Strictly speaking, you would have to calculate the room resonance frequency for further parallel walls (for the 4 metres and for the ceiling height).
Overlaying resonances are also possible if the room dimensions are very close to each other. (2.8 metres high, 3 metres wide and 5.6 metres long). The resonance at 2.8 metres is repeated as multiple (times 2) at 5.6 metres length, the resonance of the 3 metres width is close to the resonance of 2.8 metres. It would resonate strongly here at 30 Hz, 56 Hz, 60 Hz and 120/112 Hz.
Phenomena of resonance frequencies:
• For example, a man with a deep voice speaks in a very small room (2 by 2 metres, 85 Hz). The voice appears to have more emphasis than in another room or out of doors. As soon as a woman speaks, the voice will sound just the same as in another room.
• The voice of a woman or that of a small child will cause glass to shatter. The voice strikes exactly the tone that corresponds to the resonant frequency of the glass. The glass resonates so strongly that it shatters (refer to the movie "The Tin Drum").
• A group of soldiers march across a bridge in cadence. The equal movement causes the bridge to vibrate so much that it collapses. That is why no one marches across bridges in cadence.
Actually, it should be quite simple: Connect the speaker cable to the amplifier and speakers with the correct polarity and you're done. Unfortunately, many manufacturers of home cinema receivers put stumbling blocks out for the users in the form of specifications on the rear of the device and/or in the operating instructions. These usually look like the following (translations): Minimum connection impedance six ohm! Or, speaker impedance six to eight ohm. And what is the problem? There are hardly any six ohm and only a few eight ohm speakers available in Germany. Most of the speakers sold in Germany have a nominal impedance of four ohm. So theoretically, you shouldn't connect them to most of the receivers and amplifiers.
To explain why it is possible after all, we would like to briefly explain the electrical engineering principles: The impedance of a speaker is nothing other than its electrical resistance which it puts up against the flow of current.
• Low resistance = high current
• High resistance = low current
Important to know for operation with an amplifier is that the impedance is not the same for all frequencies but can, for example, change between 50 and 200 hertz by 50 percent. So it isn't entirely correct to speak of impedance for a speaker per se, rather one must always consider the behaviour across the entire range between 20 and 20,000 hertz. To still achieve a reasonable connection value for amplifiers (which, by the way, says nothing about the output impedance of the amplifier itself but rather only which impedances may be connected to it), the creators of the DIN Standard have applied the following stratagem: Only the minimum value of the impedance in the audible range is decisive for the nominal impedance value. This is where the most current flows and the amplifier is subjected to the highest load. Speakers with eight ohm nominal impedance may only exhibit a minimum of 6.4 ohm, and those with four ohm nominal impedance 3.2 ohm. Six ohm are not defined in the DIN (which is applied internationally), but one could use the above values to interpolate that they may exhibit a minimum of 4.8 ohm.
From the definition it is apparent that the nominal impedance is only a rough benchmark, because it says nothing about how the entire course of the impedance looks. No matter whether it only reaches less than 6.4 ohm at one point and is otherwise beyond that, or if the impedance moves close to 3.2 ohm across the entire range, but does not drop below that. The last speaker is surely much more stressful for the amplifier, but has just a nominal impedance of four ohm as the other higher ohm one.
Conventional speakers usually exhibit one to two minima in the bass range, and there is one frequently in the treble range. These minimum values are usually not especially broadband. Aside from the minima, the impedance is usually far higher than the nominal impedance. The amplifiers are really stressed in the bass range because firstly, this is where the most energy is for music and especially the home cinema sound, and secondly, they have to let the most current flow through the impedance minima here.
And lastly, the main reason why many manufacturers don't want four ohm speakers to be connected: In extreme cases - for deep frequencies of consistently 3.2 ohm - the amplifiers in multichannel operation become very hot. A lot of current also means a lot of power loss and thus at lot of waste heat. However, much has to come together before that happens - namely high performance for a longer period of time and setting up the device without sufficient ventilation.
But this extreme case is seldom met in practice. As mentioned above, most of the speakers are not as critical by far, and it is extremely rare to listen to an exorbitant volume for a longer period of time. That is why it is not a problem from a technical point of view to connect speakers with four ohm nominal impedance to all modern home cinema amplifiers and receivers.
However, there is one small catch: The question of warranty. Should a defect occur to the device - which doesn't even have to do anything with the speakers - and the manufacturer notices that four ohm speakers were connected despite the specifications to the contrary, he could refuse repairs due to improper use. As discussions with manufacturers and distributors have shown, this is highly unlikely because they are also aware of the problems.
And for purely legal reasons, Lautsprecher Teufel may not give you a warranty either that your amplifier or receiver will tolerate four ohm speakers. We can only pass along one experience: For several years, the listening tests of the trade magazines are done exclusively with four ohm speakers, and not a single defect has occurred as yet even though the devices are driven to their limits. Also, the performance of each device is usually measured at four and eight ohm irrespective of the specifications of the manufacturers, and the load here is also considerable. It has been a long time since measurement laboratories have seen failures due to to low load impedance.
There are still some special cases, which should be briefly mentioned: Amplifiers/receivers with impedance switches give cautious natures the possibility to stay on the safe side under all possible conditions, even with the warranty. The four ohm setting of the corresponding switch reduces the supply voltage of the power amplifiers so much that excessive heat cannot occur even under unfavourable circumstances. However, the maximum power is then reduced somewhat.
During the listening tests of the trade magazine, these devices are always switched to the "eight ohm" setting to tease out the maximum performance reserves. A defect here has yet to occur. When choosing devices, take a close look because there are devices that only permit speakers with a minimum of six ohm despite the impedance selector switch, like the Pioneer VSX-D2011, for example. This is remarkable in another respect: It possesses a THXSelect license. This license is only issued if certain measured values are complied with that are determined at four ohm for at least the front and centre speakers.
If the THX laboratory had proceeded according to manufacturer's specifications, the VSX-D2011 would never have received a licence, as it would not have been permitted to perform the necessary measurements. By the way: this is also the case for other THX Select devices. But you needn't worry here: The THX logo not only offers additional security, but also a good lever should a manufacturer once refuse a warranty.
The AUDIOVISION TIP
Overheating is the main problem that can occur through the combination of four ohm speakers with power amplifiers that are not released for this.
Therefore, in case of doubt:
• Always set up the AV Receiver or amplifier in well ventilated places and never in a closed housing or close to the heater.
• Occasionally check the temperature of the device.
• Reroute the bass elements via set-up at the subwoofer, if possible.
However, for a record player an additional phono preamplifier is required - these are available from specialist retailers for around €50.